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Disclaimer

1. Do I need fisheye killer?  There have been no reported occurrences of fisheye with PianoLac®.  SS/BC/PF has a special property that emulsifies minor contaminants.  Should it ever fail, PianoLac® Fisheye Killer can be used.  SS/BC/PF doesn’t fisheye even if sprayed directly over Pledge® furniture polish.
    
   
2. Why spray such thin coats?  PianoLac is a high solids coating-much higher than lacquer.  Multiple thin coats build quickly.  Thick coats tend to trap air between layers, leading to pinholes, orange peel and “witness lines.”  Thick coats take a long time to dry and cure.  Thin coats can be re-coated sooner, and curing is much faster.
    
   
3. How long should I wait to rub?  Total hard cure of 9 coats can take 2 to 3 weeks.  For a consistent high gloss, wait 2-3 weeks, unless dehumidification is available.  However, a rubbed satin can be accomplished in as little as 3 day’s cure. PianoLac Black develops its deep, black sheen only when it is hard cured. 2 to 3 weeks
    
   
4. What about going over other finishes?  Reports from the field indicate PianoLac can usually be sprayed over other coatings with good results.  If you want to experiment with this, follow these guidelines: 
   1. Clean old surfaces thoroughly with dilute solutions of citrus based or degreaser type cleaners.  Do all your touchups and sanding.
   2. Wipe and rinse thoroughly.
   3. Spray 2 thin coats of  SS/BC/PF before spraying topcoat.  This will insure the best chance of adhesion and compatability.
   4. PianoLac will look milky for at least an hour after applying over other finishes.
    StarHawk Labs does not promote or endorse the use of PianoLac coatings over other finishes.  The user assumes any and all risks involved in such applications.
    
   
5. Why do I have to close out the pores with SS/BC/PF before spraying topcoat?  Open pores have to be filled with something.   It’s far better to fill them with filler and the PF in SS/BC/PF than with topcoats.  It will cure faster, rub out easier, and show no pinholes.
    
   
6. Why shouldn’t I sand between coats of SS/BC/PF?  Sanding removes the barrier coat you’re trying to build, opens up the possibility of grain raising  and pinholes and creates the risk of trapping white particles between layers.  On very porous woods, level sand the next to last coat, tack off thoroughly with a damp cloth, then spray a thin coat of  SS/BC/PF.
    
   
7. Why shouldn’t I sand between coats of topcoat?  It creates the risk of trapping white particles between layers and is unnecessary for intercoat adhesion.  It wastes time and sandpaper.
    
   
8. Why can’t I use water as a rubbing lubricant? It creates a sort of orange peel effect.  Hard particles pile up on the paper causing scratches.  PianoLac RubCut oil cuts faster and glides over the surface.
    
   
9. Can I use oil based stain under PianoLac?  Yes, if you wait overnight before spraying the first coat of sealer.
    
   
10. Can I make toners with PianoLac?  Yes.  Use water soluble dye concentrates such as Moser’s or Trans-Tint.
     
    
11. Do I need retarder to prevent blushing?  No.  PianoLac is blush resistant.  Only in cases where there is no air circulation with 100% humidity will it blush.  Simply leaving on a fan and spraying thin coats will prevent blushing.
     
    
12. How do I make repairs?  Most scratches simply rub out since it’s hard to penetrate the surface.  In case of a deep scratch or gouge, replace the color with standard powders mixed in SS/BC/PF and fill in with Ultra Thick PianoLac.  Curing can be accelerated with a hair dryer.